CONTRAST AND SHADOW FILL

I have been reading up on exposures and flash photography of late. A very good knowledge of how my speed light works is important as well. So for this exercise on contrast and shadows, i bought some cardboard, aluminum foil and cellotape to set up the exercise. The flash light had to be about 2 to 3 feet away from the subject. So i used i/128 power of the speedlight which indicated an ISO of 500 with aperture of f/16 to get the required 2 to 3 feet flash to subject distance. Image 1 and 2 below show the set-up.

Image 1: Set-up for Contrast and Shadow fill exercise

Image 2: Aluminium foil wrapped on white cardboard.

Following the instructions from my manual i took about twelve exposures to illustrae Contrast and shadow fill. The effects of the light with and without the diffusers, with the white card board and aluminium foil as well as with the aluminium foil crumpled together is shown the these next photographs.

Image 3: Object without diffuser, ISO 500,50mm,rev,f/16,8.0s

Image 4:Object with diffuser, ISO 500,50mm,f/16,10s

The effect with and without the diffuser can be seen when the two images above are compared. Shadows and highlights are very obvious in image 3, but with the diffuser the light is spread more evenly reducing the contrast. The next five exposures were all taken same with image 4.

Image 5:Object with a diffuser,ISO 500,50mm,f/16,10s

Image 6:Object with a diffuser,ISO 500,50mm,f/16,10s

Image 7:Object with a diffuser,ISO 500,50mm,f/16,10s

Image 8:Object with a diffuser,ISO 500,50mm,f/16,10s

Image 9:Object with a diffuser,ISO 500,50mm,f/16,10s

After these exposures, I took the white cardboard and placed it three feet from the object on the oppsite side of the light and took the next picture.

Image 10:Object with White card three ft from the object on the opposite side,ISO 500,50mm,f/16,10

Image 11: Dull side of aluminium foil facing object:ISO 500,50mm,F/16,13s

Image 12: White card board 1.5 ft away from object:ISO 500,50mm,F/16,13s

Image 13: Shiny side of foil paper facing object:ISO 500,50mm,,F/16,13s

I

Image 14: Crumbled shiny side of foil paper facing object

This exercise has indeed shown to me how we can use reflectors and diffusers to control contrast and shadows. I have to admit prior to now I did not really have an idea of their functions anytime i visit a studio and see all the works. With a little more practice, I will be able to modify the light system in a studio. I know that that what i had to use was a bit limiting in some ways but nevertheless it opened me up to the diverse ways we can manipulate light to produce a visually appealing image.


CONCLUSIONS

1.The diffuser produces a softer light which reduces areas of high contrast on the image.
2.The shiny surface of reflectors make a difference when it is put on the opposite side of the subject/object from the light.
2.High Contrast tends to produce more evocative and atmospheric images.
3.

THE LIGHTING ANGLE

Having worked out a manageable system for diffusing the light, we are now told to experiment with using it from different directions.So went ahead to set up an arrangement experimenting with different objects. I finally settled with some nice vases in my living room to see the effect of diffused light at different angles.

Image 1:Light in front of subject,ISO 1000,50mm,f/11,8s with tripod

Image 1 above shows some shadows to the left even with the diffuser.

Image 2:Light to the right of subject,ISO 1000,50mm,f/11,8.0s with tripod

With the light to the right of subject, the shadows on the vases appear to be sharper at the edges. I used auto white balance throughout because when i attempted using flash white balance, the images appeared to tainted orange in color. Maybe the color of light in the interior affected the result.

Image 3:Light to the left of subject,ISO 1000,50mm,f/11,10s with tripod

Image 4: Light behind the subject, ISO 1000,0ev,f/11,4s,with tripod,

With the image 4, i was supposed to get a silhouette which did'nt turn out so. It may possibly due to the flash power which i set at 1/128 based on the aperture and ISO i was using. I would need some now explanation from my instructor to help me get better at this next time. I know that to achieve a silhouette, the light meter is balanced with the brighter light and and the camera  re-directed to the dark area and then shutter is pressed. Thats now i have achieved silhouette before. But this one proved to be more challenging.

Image 5: Light behind subject to the left,ISO 1000,50mm,0EV,f/11,5s, with tripod

Image 6: Light behind subject to the right, ISO 1000,50mm,0EV,f/11,5s, with  tripod

Image 7: Light behind subject right at 45 degrees, ISO 1000,50mm ,f/11, 5s, with tripod

Image 8: Light behind to the subjects left at 45 degrees, ISO 1000,50mm,f/11,3s, with tripod

Image 9:Subject to the left of camera with side light at 45 degree angle: ISO 1000,50mm,f/11,2s, with tripod

Image 10: Subject to the right of camera with light at 45 degrees to the right: ISO 1000,50mm,f/11,2.5 with tripod

Image 11:Subject with light overhead pointing downwards: ISO 1000,50mm,f/11,2s with tripod

Image 12: Subject with light overhead slightly in front: ISO 1000,50mm,f/11,2.0 with tripod

Image 13: Subject with light overhead, Slightly behind.ISO 1000, 50mm,f/11,2s with tripod